I Left My Heart in San Fran-Cheesy; Part 3, The Final Chapter.

It was nice waking up in the hotel room on this morning. I love that hotel. I guess I have an affinity for it as I stayed there about five years ago and had a special time.

But, no rest for the weary – we had to hit the ground running and get to the farmers’ market at the Ferry Building.

It was a blustery day, drizzly and gray. When we arrived at the market we pretty much bee-lined for the oyster stand. I ordered three on the half shell. And, I have to admit, standing there in the weatheryness, a little groggy, staring at the bay, slurping down those oysters – there was nowhere I would have rather been. It was one of those moments that you know, right then and there, you’ll remember forever. Pretty god-damn great.

After that I hit up Roli Roti for a more substantial lunch. It was delicious. We poked around for a bit, checked out the stalls. I, of course, wanted to buy up some beautiful piece of produce from each and every stall, but I didn’t have a kitchen to race back to to flex in. So I bought a jar of pickled veggies to bring home to Maggie instead.
 

Then we went on to wander around at the Musée Mécanique, which was just down the way. By the by, anyone exploring San Francisco absolutely must check this spot out. It is great fun.

There was a lot of walking, a lot of wandering, a lot of coffee stops, and then back to the hotel to get ready for our last big night out in the city.

The strangest thing: whenever we looked out the window of our room, the city looked bright and dry. But then every time we walked out the front doors of the hotel, it was gray, blowy and rainy. Mysterious.

We hopped in a cab and set out to have a cocktail prior to dinner at a fun little bar very close to the restaurant. I really dug this bar and would like to return at some point to try the food. Onward. To Quince.

Quince was the only other I-must-eat-here spot in San Francisco other than Chez Panisse for this trip. I had heard raves about the place for years and thought Michael Tusk, who cooked extensively in Europe, and used to work at Stars, Oliveto, and Chez Panisse, had the tastiest morsel of all at La Loves Alex’s Lemonade this past November. I believe it was a quail and chickory salad with quince mostarda.

Quince’s interior was an unexpected delight. For some reason, I had predicted an environment more along the lines of Heirloom, but what I discovered was entirely a surprise. What I walked into was an elegant, formal dining room studded with chandeliers and suited staff, yet modern and hip (God, I hate using that word) with original Thomas Struth and Sally Mann prints. With exposed brick in the back and high ceilings, a large main dining space with peripheral area in the back, a long bar to the side, lounge in front, a private dining room, and a huge 10,000-bottle wine cellar, clearly this is an occasion restaurant. Thankfully, this was one (when isn’t?).

After I ordered my wine and Minty ordered her cocktail, the food began. We were first served our amuse bouche: scoop of diced big eye tuna and a shot of salsify veloute. Beautiful, fresh and inspired.

From there we ordered a few items that seemed a smart cross section of the menu, to share. They instinctively split our plates, which was tremendously generous and kind. The service was impeccable all night, actually.

 
Then came our Willet Farm Artichoke Salad with farro and burrata. This was a bewitching and graceful dish. The super fresh, creamy burrata worked beautifully with the earthiness of the artichoke and the farro and the crispies on top of it all.

The Delta Crawfish with Sonoma Coast wild mushroom, chickweed and cipollini onion was up next and was also exemplary. Those crawfish were cooked perfectly and were promoted to a surprisingly elegant status, yet maintained true-to their-roots in both presentation and taste.

I am on an extreme pasta kick right now so the Tagliolini with smoked eel and fava beans was an obvious choice. The pasta was done just right and the smoked eel was a creative and welcome companion. The fava element added a nice coarseness to such an otherwise refined dish. I could have eaten my body weight in this one.

And then we were served our Atlantic Cod with celery root, Meyer lemon and black truffle. I’m such a lucky girl to have so much truffle in so little time. And we all know about my current celery root fixation. This was one of those dishes. One of those perfectly composed, well thought out and well executed dishes. This dish was not unlike some of the beautiful photographs hanging on the very walls in front of my eyes that night. It was a piece of art.

I was doubtful that our dessert would rival the previous night’s at Chez Panisse. While they were not to be compared – apples and oranges, if you will – the Meyer Lemon Tart was pornographic in decadence, richness and buttery goodness. And, yet, somehow maintained a refined freshness.

Jeez.

So.

This was my favorite meal on our little journey.

Then we went and closed down a bar with another cute bartender to flirt with. Then there was lunch the next day. Then, after an overwhelmingly delicious coffee, we hit the road.

And, after a long drive (sans speeding ticket) with a beautiful sunset and then horrific weather, I greeted my little family up in the canyon, put on my pine cone jammies, poured a glass of wine, and snuggled into my couch to contemplate how I left my heart in San Fran-Cheesy.

Le P'tit Laurent

Several of my friends told me Valentine's Day is a Hallmark holiday and that they can celebrate love everyday, they don't need to wait until February 14th. If that's truly the case, they should all plan on taking their beloved to Le P'tit Laurent for a cozy dinner for two.

I was recently invited to be a guest at Le P'tit Laurent and I can't wait to go back. It booked up quickly for Valentine's Day and it's no wonder why. Though located just a hop, skip and a jump away from the Glen Park BART station in San Francisco, it's the quintessential French bistro, decorated with all things French–a pressed tin ceiling, a collection of antique corkscrews, vintage posters and liquor signs. The waiters and waitresses are French. I can't imagine not being charmed from the moment you walk in.

The food is classic bistro fare, onion soup, mussels marinieres, beef bourgignon, cassoulet, frisee salad with bacon and poached egg, bouillabase. Call if French comfort food. These are familiar flavors, nothing fancy, but hearty and warming. I had the Rabbit Normandy, served with fingerling potatoes. It was rich and had a slightly tangy sauce. The portion was enormous. Prices are reasonable and there is a very good prix fixe for only $22.

For dessert, don't miss the "Pain Perdu" or caramelized French toast with ice cream and a drizzle of caramel sauce. One bite and you will forget you are in San Francisco and all the cares of the world will melt away like the ice cream on your plate. And isn't that the point of going out to eat in the first place?

Le P'tit Laurent699 Chenery Street @ Diamond St
San Francisco, CA 94131
(415) 334-3235
Sunday - Thursday 5:30 pm thru 9:30 pm
Friday- Saturday 5:30 pm thru 10:30 pm

Lebanese pizzas at Amanie's Bakery

I first discovered Lebanese pizza when I was studying Arabic at a primary school in outer suburban Melbourne.  A Saturday morning "ethnic" school ran out of there each week and I had been placed into Year 9.  If you thought high school was awkward, try being 23 years old and in a class full of 15-year-olds for whom Saturday Arabic school is the definition of pure torture.  The classes were good, but what truly kept me going back was the canteen at break time.  Parents would lug bulging cardboard boxes into the playground and line them up on card tables.  Everyone would forget how much they did not want to be there and rush to form a long, jostling line.  In the cardboard boxes lay pocket after pocket of warm, savoury Lebanese pizza, each wrapped in a single square of greaseproof paper.  There were only two choices - cheese or za'atar, a special herb - and they were ridiculously cheap.  I could never decide which to get so I always got both.  Those pizzas, eaten on an old bench seat under a peppercorn tree, are still the best Lebanese pizzas I've had in Melbourne.

Sadly I no longer attend that Arabic school and am none the wiser where they sourced their pizzas from.  The biggest choice of Lebanese bakeries or makhaabiz (singular: makhbaz) is in the northern suburbs but we have a few options here in the west.  There's the bakery at the Circle in Altona North, a small range at Babylon as well as Al Nada in Spotswood, but none are really a match with what is on offer in the north.  That is, until I found Amanie's.

This is a very traditional Lebanese bakery dealing in man'oush or Lebanese pizza.  There are a few classic types and they are always insanely cheap.  The owner here is really lovely, very friendly.

There will be some pizzas ready-made and lying behind the counter, often protected by a long sheet of paper.  Make your selection and they will be placed deftly on the floor of the long, flat oven using a special long-handled slidey tool.  They seriously only need 1 or 2 minutes before they are piping hot - the oven is kept at such a scorching temperature.

This is one of my all-time favourite drinks - I only know it by its Turkish name, ayran.  It's the original drinking yoghurt - thin, salty yoghurt that is tangy and surprisingly refreshing.  You can make it easily at home but it's somewhat of a tradition to always get it when I have Lebanese pizza.

Jibnee (haloumi cheese), $3

The mothership Lebanese pizza pie.  Salty, rich, creamy, almost squeaky on the teeth melted haloumi cheese, sometimes with a little butter, soft and melty in a delicate bread pocket.  Sometimes the dough can be way too heavy or there is too much cheese (sounds strange, I know, but haloumi is pretty intense) but Amanie's was 100% perfect.

Sbanegh ma'a jibn (spinach and cheese), $3.50

This was a perfect example of what is actually one of my least favourite pies.  Often the balance is not quite right - there's too much spinach which gets bitter and overpowering, or the bread becomes wet and claggy from the wet vegetables.  This really was excellent, though - tender, just-cooked spinach with just enough mild feta-style cheese.  The plain spinach is also really excellent - it doesn't have any cheese but the spinach is sweated with onion and allspice and is so tasty and healthy.

Lahmi (meat), $3

Another classic done superbly.  A flat disc of dough is thinly topped with a lamb mince and tomato mixture that is heavy on the onion and allspice.  Indeed, allspice is probably the most used spice in Lebanese cooking - something I found quite remarkable at first as I always associated it with cakes.  Traditionally this is sprinkled with lemon juice and chilli powder before folding in half.  There is always some on the counter; just ask them to add it!

Za'atar ("oregano"), $1.80

The original and always the best.  Za'atar is both the name for this indigenous Middle Eastern herb, a kind of local oregano/thyme often translated into English as one or the other.  Here za'atar means the spice blend made with the dried herb, sesame seeds, salt and the optional addition of other spices such as lemony sumac berries or cumin.  Here it is smoothed onto a simple circle of dough along with olive oil.  At around $1.50 each, this is probably the cheapest lunch in Melbourne.  They can be filled with tomato, cucumber and other salad items to make a sort of wrap.  We like to use them as pizza bases!

Kishik, $4

I was so excited I mistakenly ordered this instead of shankleesh which is a spherical, aged feta-style cheese, rolled in herbs, that is quite delicious when smooshed onto a pizza.  Kishik, it turns out, is a fermented and dried grain/yoghurt product that is then rehydrated as a kind of porridge or paste.  It tasted to me a bit like mashed potatoes.  It was sprinkled with raw onion, lemon and chilli.  I wasn't really a fan but it was fun to try something different.

Toum, $3

Wait til you try this.  It is Lebanese aioli or toum and it is totally divine.  Silky, garlicky, rich yet light.  Amazing!  This is eaten lots of ways including with grilled meats or just as a dip.  It apparently keeps up to a month if you use a clean spoon to take some out each time.  We ate it with fresh Lebanese bread from Amanie's - speaking of which, Lebanese bread really should be eaten that day or the next day in a pinch.  When fresh it is so fantastic, chewy yet light, and is a million miles away from the horrible stale specimens the supermarket sell up to five days past when they were baked.

I am so stoked to find such a wonderful Lebanese baker so close to home.  Now the only question is deciding which pizza to choose.  You can always try the Mr Baklover special - take za'atar pizza, open, insert cheese pizza, close.  Eat.  Genius!

Amanie's Bakery
Shop 4, 280-284 Main Road East, St Albans (map)
Phone:  9364 5333
Hours:  Mon - Sat 7.30am - 7pm, Sun 7.30am - 5pm

For more Lebanese delights, check out Sydney-based Fouad's modern as well as traditional takes on the food of his homeland, augmented by his gorgeous photos and cheeky style, at thefoodblog.com.au.

Wheelchair Access
Level entry

I'm very happy to be participating in From Cup to Crop, a new initiative by Plan International to raise both awareness and funds to fight hunger in the developing world.  You can either take part in the Cup to Crop Challenge - living on $3 for food per day, one day per week for one month or choose to donate $3 on top of your bill at participating venues.  That $3 will feed a child for a staggering 10 days!  As my contribution, I pledge to donate $3 for every meal I have out over the campaign month, 14 March to 14 April.  I will keep a tally at the bottom of each post and perhaps you too could consider supporting From Cup to Crop.

Creamless Creamy Tomato Soup

I love sharing things that I used to enjoy with my kids. I want them to watch the classic Disney cartoons like Cinderella, read classic children's stories like Charlotte's Web and go on outings that include hay rides and going down slides.


It's not that I object to the cutting edge technology of Pixar and video games that don't even require a controller, I just love the wave of nostalgia that I experience when my kids fall in love with the same things that I used to love at that age. Maybe it's my own weird way of vicariously getting to be a kid again!

And since I want my kids to also experience the same foods I used to eat, grilled cheese sandwiches and tomato soup have definitely made an frequent appearance on our dinner table. But eventually you have to draw a line when it comes to authenticity, and the canned version of tomato soup will no longer do.


So, I was thrilled to find this light, but rich and gorgeously smooth version of tomato soup, that made the perfect mate for our grilled cheesers. Instead of adding cream, bread is your thickener and the flavor of tomatoes is much stronger and tangier then what you get in the canned stuff. It's dippin' delicious!

Creamless Creamy Tomato Soup
By America's Test Kitchen Healthy Family Cookbook

Ingredients

1/4 cup olive oil
1 onion
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 bay leaf
2 (28 oz) cans whole peeled tomatoes
1 tablespoon light or dark brown sugar
3 slices high-quality white sandwich bread, crusts removed, torn into 1-inch pieces
2 cups low-sodium chicken broth
2 tablespoons brandy (I omitted this, but if you use it, be sure to let me know how it is!)
salt and pepper
1/4 cup minced chives

Directions

1. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large Dutch oven over medium heat until shimmering. Add the onion, garlic, red pepper flakes, and bay leaf and cook until the onion is softened, about 5 minutes.

2. Stir in the tomatoes with their juice. Using a potato masher, mash the tomatoes until no pieces are larger than 2 inches. Stir in the sugar and bread, bring to a simmer, and cook until the bread begins to dissolve, about 5 minutes.

3. Discard the bay leaf. Puree the soup with the remaining 2 tablespoons oil in a blender, in batches, until smooth. Return the soup to a clean pot, stir in the broth and Brandy, and cook gently over medium-low heat until the soup is hot. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle individual bowls with the chives before serving.

Serves 6: 1 1/2 cups per serving

Per Serving: 180 cal, 10g fat, 19g carb, 3g prot, 3g fiber, 610mg sod

Macarons from Pierre Hermé or Ladureé. What's your pick?

The basic ingredients of macaron are egg white and lots of sugar. It's so amazing that with such simple ingredients coupled with some whisking, piping and baking, so many variations of macarons can be created.

Macaron is what I called 'happy' food. Happy because it's sweet and colorful and looks like it's something that can cheer me up when I'm down. The vibrance of colors and multitudes of taste that goes on between that two sweet biscuit shells spell out the magic conjured by their creators. Of course, only with lots of dedication and creativity can these confectionary evolved into a magical art form. The two famous French names that I think can claim masters of the macaron art would be Ladureé and Pierre Hermé.

I am lucky enough to be presented with the chance of tasting them without having to fly to Paris. They flew to me for a 'clash of the titans'.

Pierre Hermé Infiniment Caramel contains salted butter caramel between the macaron shells. It has a smoother creamier taste of butter than Ladureé's

Ladureé Caramel with Salted Butter - Ladureé's version have a more distinct caramel taste and less creamier as compared to Pierre Hermé's. The filling is browner, evident of a predominant caramel mix.

Pierre Hermé Rose - Take a deep breathe, smell it, then taste it. The immense fragrance of the Rose was really pronounced. It's really a fine line between one that taste like Rose syrup and one that really let you think you're eating macaron among a rose wonderland. Pierre Hermé's Rose macaron brought out the latter experience, even though I'm sitting in my clutter living room, messy with outdated newspaper and magazines. You can call me a day dreamer, cause this macaron do make you fantasize ...... 

Ladureé Rose - Ladureé  Rose has a subtle touch in terms of fragrance and taste. It gives you that refinement of Rose, not overpowering, but simply sweet as a lover's comforting embrace. This one is more like a single red rose, simple and sweet smelling while Pierre Hermé's version brings you into a rose wonderland.

Ladureé Green Apple was a good switch from the mostly sweet macarons that I've tried. The sourish taste of the green apple filling play down the sweetness of this macaron.

Ladureé's Vanilla was unmistakably vanilla right down to the taste, smell and look. Even the little vanilla seeds from inside the vanilla pods can be seen scattered throughout the shells. I heard that Pierre Hermé Triple Vanilla was hard to beat but unfortunately it's not available this season and there's no grounds for a comparison.

Pierre Hermé Mogador is a mix of Chocolat au Lait and Fruit de la Passion. Ade thought that the chocolate and passion fruit was a really good mix. Due to the climate where passion fruit thrives, this must have been a popular taste in Paris as these fruits would most likely be harder to come by or cost more to import.

Pierre Hermé Métissé is Carotte (Carrot), Orange and Canelle (Cinnamon) flavor. This is a new flavor that's just added to the shelf. The shell on top was carrot flavored that even come with bits of carrot. The bottom shell is orange flavored. There's only a very slight tint of cinnamon while the taste of orange came through very predominantly and the carrot was almost forgotten if not for the color of the shell and the bits that I grind with my teeth. I liked the bold colors and mix but the taste may have just pass off as an orange flavor.

Pierre Herme Truffe Blanche and  Noisette. First the concentrated fragrance of the white truffle hit me and then followed by the smooth sweetness of the noisette. The taste was unique but I thought it was fragrant and absolutely awesome. This can be a 'either-you-hate-it-or-you-love-it' flavor. There's even foie gras flavor from Pierre Hermé if you thought this white truffle flavor is bold. 

Pierre Hermé Infiniment Chocolat - Chocolat Pure Origine Venezuela Porcelana is the Venezuela chocolate flavor. Tricia was put to the test for this flavor. She's a little imp with a taste for chocolate and everything sweet. There's no need for long elaborated description of how this macaron taste. She ate the whole thing and managed a cheeky twinkling smile which sums it all for the taste of this macaron. 

After trying both Ladureé and Pierre Hermé macarons with a small 'tasting panel', I can only conclude within the scope of that mere 2 boxes that Pierre Hermé would be the more creative, more adventurous master of macaron whereas Ladureé is more of a fundamentalist and more traditional master of macarons making. I thought they are both very good macaron makers. So it really depends on your experience with either, your character, your peculiar taste that will make you stand on either camp. Personally, I'm more swayed towards Pierre Hermé. What about you? 

Ladureé Website

Pierre Hermé Website

Nigella's Chocolate Honey Cake

super simple dense fabulous chocolate cake that's not too rich and not too too sweet...makes an any-occasion dessert that tastes incredible and looks "pastry-chef" impressive

i say "super simple" because Nigella always makes things look so simple.  if you look at the recipe as it is written,  it doesn't sound all that easy and quick, BUT if you catch the show like i did, you'll see how easy she makes it look.  she throws everything into the processor, pours it into the pan, then in the oven for about an hour or so...done.  this prompted me to make it that very day.  i caught the show on one of her early morning reruns on the cooking channel and the cake was made by that afternoon. 

when all was done i found the cake WAS super easy...

BUT THE BEES ARE A PAIN IN THE BUTT!  

on the show she had her kids making the bees...no kids around here so i was left to the task at hand...please pardon my bees.  i think it's a job best left for the kids.  well...they were kinda cute i guess.

NIGELLA'S CHOCOLATE HONEY BEE CAKE.

original found here at Foodnetwork.com

as mentioned above...the instructions for the recipe found at foodnetwork.com are different than how she made it on the show.  i have posted the instructions for the way i saw it done on the show.  the ingredients are the same...but i added 1 tsp espresso powder and 1 tsp vanilla to the cake...

AND i covered it with a dark chocolate ganache instead of the Sticky Honey Glaze.

CAKE

4 oz. semi sweet chocolate broken into pieces

1 1/3 cup light brown sugar

2 sticks or 1 cup super soft unsalted butter

1/2 cup honey

2 eggs

1 1/2 cup AP flour

1 tsp baking soda

1 Tbsp cocoa powder

optional...1 tsp espresso powder and 1 tsp vanilla extract

1 cup boiling water

preheat oven to 350 F

line the bottom of a 9 inch springform pan with parchment.  i buttered the sides and covered with cocoa powder as well.

melt the chocolate in a double boiler and set aside.

in the processor add in this order...(if it matters)

1 1/3 cup light brown sugar, 1 cup super soft unsalted butter, 2 eggs, 1/2 cup honey, 1 1/2 cup flour, 1 tsp baking soda, 1 Tbsp cocoa powder (sift it in), (add 1 tsp espresso powder and 1 tsp vanilla if you are using)...and finally add the melted chocolate...whiz this until it is smooth, stopping a moment to scrape the sides.  incorporate well...while the processor is going add the 1 cup of boiling water until all is nice and smooth and incorporated well...BUT do not over process.  this is a very runny batter.  do not pull out your blade if you have a smaller size processor.  remove the processor bowl with the blade still inside and pour into prepared pan.  place the filled pan on a aluminum covered cookie sheet (batter might escape at the bottom a little bit).  put in 350 F degree oven for approximately 1 to 1 1/2 hour.  check cake at 45 minutes to see if you need to cover the top for the final 15 minutes or so.  mine took 1 hour.  check with tooth pick.  remove and let the cake cool completely before glazing.

i used a simple 1 to 1 chocolate ganache

6 oz good dark 60% chocolate

6 oz heavy cream

bring cream to almost a boil, stirring so as not to burn on the bottom.  add hot cream to chocolate and stir until all is melted and there are no tiny pieces.  don't stir too hard or you will create bubbles.

pour over cooled cake and refrigerate until set.

bees

bees are easy, but tedious.  use 1-2 oz. of marzipan and some sliced almonds for the wings.  paint them with black frosting or use the melted chocolate for the "bee look".

One Pot Mac and Cheese

I love my quiet days with my son. He's so easy going, pleasant and happy to go-with-the-flow. He doesn't ask for much, which is why when he does, I'm pretty happy to comply. However, things were getting a bit out of hand when he was asking for mac and cheese for the tenth day in a row. I don't mind pulling the box out every now and again, but I'm pretty sure that florescent orange powder wasn't meant for consumption on a daily basis.



That's why I was so excited when Lara from Recipe Shoebox (totally awesome blog, you're guaranteed to leave hungry), posted this more natural version of mac and cheese. Just like the title says, it only takes one pot, it's quick and the kids loved it. There's a lot you could do with this, I think next time I might throw in a can of diced tomatoes, or ground beef, it's very versatile. Thanks Lara for keeping our diets just a bit more natural!


One Pot Mac and Cheese
From Recipe Shoebox

Ingredients

4 cups water
2 cups milk
4 chicken bouillon cubes
1 lb. macaroni noodles (or other small pasta)
3 cups grated cheddar cheese

Directions

In a large saucepan, mix water, milk, bouillon, and pasta. Bring to a boil and let it simmer, stirring occasionally, until nearly all of the liquid is gone and the pasta is tender (about 10 minutes). Remove from heat and stir in cheese. Enjoy!

My Sky-guy after layering four puzzles on top of each other. Yup, that's about as wild as it gets around here :)

Boxes of Macarons have arrived from Pierre Hermé and Ladurée in Paris, France.

Chris just flew back from Paris after her snow boarding week in Les' Arc. This time no broken ribs but seems like the snow wasn't too fantastic. Guess what she has for us? As I drove to pick her up for dinner with HY, I tried to conceal my excitement. She brought us the paper bag of Pierre Herme and Laduree and as she hopped on the car, she told me, 'Sorry I only bought HY a bag, I've got no presents for you.'  What do you call the two paper bags of macarons and the flat packs of Jamon Iberico Bellota and chorizos? That's really an understatement sis. ;-)

The box of Pierre Herme Truffe Blanche & Noisette Macarons. I was told by Chris that this macaron has to be separately packed because the fragrance of the white truffle was so strong that it'll messed up the taste of the other flavors.

As I opened the box, the fragrance of the white truffle was still evident, even after the flight from Paris.  I can't imagine the intensity of the the white truffle when it came out fresh.

A close up of a Pierre Herme Truffe Blanche & Noisette Macaron. Chris and I were all over this truffle infused macaron. As I sank a bite into this, first the immense fragrance of the white truffle hit me and then followed by the smooth sweetness of the noisette. The taste was unique to me but I thought it was fragrant and absolutely awesome. HY gave it a pass. Her palate probably associate the fragrance of truffles to a savory taste.

Our Box of Pierre Herme looking ready to be indulged. I'll have a few more after dinner. Does it look inviting?

Stay tuned for more of Pierre Hermé and Ladureé macarons ......